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                  【黑龍江日報】江畔老廠

                   




                   

                    我的老家是齊齊哈爾,在我家樓前壩下有道寬寬的江,叫嫩江。“齊齊哈爾”,達斡爾語,“邊疆”意。1125年建城,“扼四達之要沖,為諸城之都會”,康熙38年為黑龍江省省城,前后255年。

                  據考,早在一萬年前,齊齊哈爾地區已有先民生息繁衍。他們沿嫩江兩岸而居,以漁獵為生。“嫩”,女真語,“碧”、“青”之意。源出大興安嶺支脈伊勒呼里山的中段南側,齊齊哈爾位于其下游,河曲發達,兩岸平闊。

                  在我出生的上世紀七十年代初,齊齊哈爾就有許多國營大廠為中國制造著鋼骨鐵架。我的爸爸就是第一機床廠203車間的工人。

                  爸爸說我是晚上六點整出生的,當時住在龍沙區一個叫做黃沙灘的地方。碧血黃沙,這是我現在唯一能聯想到的詞匯,有些壯懷激烈。因為屬狗,后來有老人說道我,六點天黑了,馬上就要守夜了,勞碌命。

                  那時老家的風很大,每年天暖了就要像怪獸一樣蹦出來晝夜陰號。奶奶照看我們姐仨,偶爾出去被大人抱著,臉上蒙著紗巾,鄰居們笑著過來要看“羊毛卷”。

                  鄰居們都蟻居在第一機床廠四宿舍第十一棟大樓里,其實那時這片家屬區很像一個沿江的村莊,據說這十一幢大樓是早期建的,樸拙結實,冬暖夏涼。從記事到我十四歲那年搬走,從沒聽到過有哪兩家鄰居爭吵,如果兩家的小孩子打仗家長知道了,那么一定要責打甚至罰跪自己家的小孩子,而任何一家包了餃子,也都要送對門或近鄰一碗,否則會被樓上樓下笑話。

                  我家所住的樓有三個單元,我家在中間的樓梯口二樓。大樓從一棟到十一棟,一直排到江邊。而十一棟大樓前,就是我們稱為“大壩”的江堤,嫩江水是平緩的,泛著藍色。

                  冬天江面上凍了厚厚的冰,凍了冰的江面堅如頑鐵,積雪后可過馬車和行人。我曾摳開積雪趴在上面使勁往冰層里瞅,仿佛一塊巨大的墨綠色玻璃磚,顛倒的乾坤里連我的倒影都沒有。

                  夏天,男孩們整日在水里嬉戲,遠遠的裸著,像油光發亮的泥鰍。早起可以撿到翻白的小魚,那是穿著水衩在突突作響的鐵皮船上打了一宿魚的伙計們散落的。朝陽下,有個老者在寂靜的江彎處搬罾,一罾下來,銀光閃閃,細鱗啪啪地惹來拿著小桶的孩子們。我拿著小罐頭瓶遠遠看著,不敢往前湊,怕水邊紫色的大螞蝗粘到身上。偶爾撿到幾個蛤蜊,裝在小瓶中回家看它們慢吞吞地起承轉合。

                  北方“五一”后柳樹才冒出花生大的鵝黃小芽,小孩子們從干涸的江心處一個權作小橋的水泥管道上經過,兩邊近水的地方踩上去煊軟得像媽媽發過的面。對面走來的一群男孩中有個最漂亮的,我趕緊躲到伙伴身后藏起來,過了小橋,一頭扎到沙堆上瘋玩,才忘了剛才路經的悵惘。

                  江邊壩上靠近十一棟大樓的地方,有棵大楊樹,樹下是奶奶和鄰居媳婦們嘮嗑做棉被的地方。壩上許多家挖了菜窖,儲存過冬的土豆白菜,后來來了一個推土機把菜窖都壓塌推平了。我曾眼見尤迪的爸爸,一個二十幾歲的體育老師,把推平的地方挖開,抱出兩個大西瓜。沿著江壩走不到十分鐘,就是龍沙公園四號門,每個星期日,我們一家人都要打扮齊整,去公園從早晨溜達到晌午。

                   


                   

                  龍沙公園始建于1907年,是一座百年古園。時任黑龍江巡撫的程德全捱嘆“塞北無佳境”而興建此園。里面花卉動物、亭臺樓閣美不勝收,而標志性建筑是望江樓。始建于1908年,位于龍沙公園勞動湖東畔的假山上。周樹模張朝墉在南墻外,鑿溝引人嫩江,在溝西側覆土為邊山,在山頂建一草亭,初名未雨亭,登亭西望,江水波光粼粼,岸邊綠樹成蔭。

                  公園有個花塢,當年只有母親認得匾額上的這個塢字。我小姨父的姨父是管理員,我們全家人得以進去隨便參觀。里面都是各省甚至國外的奇花異草,潮呼呼,黏塔塔,有的像蛇一樣盤繞好長,散發出厚重的香味。登過望江亭,游過花塢,才算真正領略到了龍沙公園的妙處,回去和鄰居們才有談資。

                  當然也有各種動物,丹頂鶴和梅花鹿居多。有只小鹿腿瘸了,我曾喂過它沙果。丹頂鶴喜歡湊成一圈仰著脖子沖天叫喚,后來上學才知道,這叫鶴鳴九皋,聲聞于天。當時以為他們在仰脖消化剛吃的小魚。還有駱駝,開春時總能見到一些阿姨拿著長長的鉤子把駱駝脫落到地上的毛勾走,姐姐說她們要回去織毛衣。

                  轉過我的母校一廠一小,就是一廠俱樂部了。俱樂部旁邊有個牧場酒家,也外賣啤酒。我小舅母最漂亮的妹妹小華姨曾在那給我打過啤酒。家里來客人我負責拿著塑料桶去打啤酒,一毛一斤。牧場酒家幾個字是當時唯一用閃爍的電子管做的,老師說那叫霓虹燈,里充的是“氡”氣。每次去打啤酒,我心里都要念一遍“氦氖氬氪氙氡”這幾個惰性氣體。

                  離家近三十年,我幾次夢見過這條江,只是不是藍色,而是流沙金色。同時我夢到旋轉的星空,南極北極和洋流回轉圖,卻是江水的藍色,上面鉆石般繁星點點。如今,每次公出回老家,我都央求姐姐和妹妹陪我故地重游。她們以為我是來尋故事,其實我是想找回故事里的自己。從大樓走到江邊,老樹猶在;看兩岸萬家燈火,竟不知身在何處。某年某月的某個落雪的晌午,那潔白如銀的江邊雪地上曾有兩對同樣潔白如銀的腳印,往事經年,腳印早已被歲月的江風湮沒了,甚至話語,甚至諾言,甚至姓名。只有月下的嫩江水在寬緩地流淌著,講述著有關成長的故事,宛如一曲悠長的歌樂曲。

                                                              【作者:韓兵系《檢察日報》駐黑龍江省記者站站長】   
                                                               【原載于2019年8月5日《黑龍江日報》“北國風”】



                   


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